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If you are looking for a High Quality Grading and North Georgia Concrete Contractor you have come to the right place. Hudson's Concrete, Grading and Dirt work's is a division of Superior Buildings and Carports, Inc. We are concrete and grading contractors that provide a full range of driveway, building slab and dirt services. We provide building slabs with concrete footings to meet local code.

Are you looking to get a permit pulled for your commercial or residential project. We can provide complete permitting services for an additional cost. Residential $1,000.00* / Commercial $2,500 plus any county and state cost.* Most home owners can pull there own permit for just the county cost +/- $200.00.

Does your old driveway need to be removed and replaced. We will remove old concrete or asphalt driveways and replace with a new concrete driveway. Before we pour the new concrete, we grade the driveway and remove debris and roots. We have on hand all supporting tools needed to do any job big or small. With many years of experience on small and large custom jobs, we provide professional work for a high quality job! We offer quick job turn around and we specialize in building construction and building slab work along with the grading. This means that we can put in concrete and build you a level parking area or work area on what might have been an unleveled area that was not useable.

Small concrete job's start at $2000.00. Small grading jobs start at $450.00. We typically can move in machinery and complete a job for a little more than an equipment rental company will charge for a machine, trailer and fuel. This means you get an experienced operator on site to complete your needs with machine delivery and removal and fuel included in the price. We normally do not work by the 1/2 day and day.

Typical job cost are $3,450.00 to $7,500.00 for a new concrete building slab. Full concrete driveway removal and replacement on an average sized driveway runs from $6,000.00 to $12,000.00. We build concrete loading docks and concrete retaining walls. We treat every job as if it were our own. This means that we do not cut corners and do good work. We think we have one of the BEST crews in Atlanta. We have a no drugs, period, policy. Bryan our lead foreman does not drink, smoke, take pills (legal or illegal) or do drugs. This means your crew shows up when it is supposed to, does quality work, does not change the price, and completes the job in a timely and professional manner. *If we encounter rock, stumps, trash, or debris in the building area, the cost could increase.

In additional to concrete building slabs we offer complete dirt work services. We offer excavating and we can repair and replace sewer drain pipes and plumbing pipe breaks in the yard. We can trench ditches for an electrical line or french drains. In order to build a quality building you must be able to control water run off, this of course means that we can correct water drainage and surface water control around your house or building and correct a leaky crawl space or basement.

We provide dump truck services including structural fill dirt and top soil. We keep crush and run gravel in stock and on hand for weekend deliveries. We can fill and re-mediate sink holes and provide lot grading including new lawn prep.

Do it yourself - How to build your own concrete building slab.

Grading and Dirt work

Concrete Building Slabs

Concrete Driveways

Driveway Replacement

Dirt works
Concrete building slab 1
Drive way replacement
Grading and dirt work
Concrete building slab 2
Concrete driveway 2
Replace your old asphalt driveway with concrete.
French drain
Dump truck services marietta ga
Site clearing
Bobcat work.
Asphalt driveway replacement
Concrete building pads.
Concrete footings
Bryan The Concrete Man.


  • In many cases driveways that fail are due to tree root growth, thin concrete and/or poor site prep. It is important that grading and water control across the concrete are correct. Large roots should be removed and the driveway should be properly packed before the pour. A concrete footing can be placed at the entrance of the driveway to increase its strength.
  • Older driveways are 9 to 10 feet wide. More modern driveways can be 11 to 12 feet wide for a single lane and 20 feet wide for doubles.
  • Expansion joints should be placed about every 10 to 12 feet. Concrete is hot and expanded when poured. As it cools and hardens it contracts(shrinks), about 1/16 inch every 10 to 15 feet. Expansion joints could be called contraction joints. All concrete will crack. Expansion joints are man made controlled cracks.
  • Standard concrete driveways are about 4" thick. Commercial concrete driveways are 6" to 8" thick.

  • Building pads are normally flat 4" pours. Some jobs have slightly inclined slabs to drain water out of the building if needed by customer. Most counties require footings around the perimeter of the slab. Typically this is 12" of additional concrete with two pieces of #4 rebar in the footing. Footings add an extra cost of $600.00 to $1200.00.
  • Footings are normally inspected by the county or an engineer to determine if the ground will support the weight of the building. County inspectors check several things when looking at a concrete building slab. They look for proper thickness. They look for proper sized footings normally 12" x 12", this will depend on your (local) frost line and soil type. They use a probe to check the ground to make sure the footings are placed on compacted soil. We prepare your slab for inspection. It is up to the customer to get the building permit and call for inspection before we pour. We will obtain permits for the job for an additional fee, typically $1,000.00 plus county costs.
  • Your concrete building slab can be reinforced for heavy duty use in several ways. It can be made thicker, 4" to 6" thick. It can have rebar added to it, if it is at least 5.5" inches thick, any thinner and rebar will cause it to crack. The rebar controls cracking of the slab by helping control the concretes expansion. When you put weight on a concrete slab it will bow slightly. The top of the slab will compress which is good because concrete is the strongest in compression. The bottom of the slab expands or tries to pull apart. The can cause it to break and crack over time. To help prevent expansion #3 or 3/8' thick metal rebar is used and placed in a grid normally around 18" on center. Welded wire fencing can also be used to help control cracking. Pig wire fencing is one type used. It costs about $125.00 per 5' by 100' roll. The wire goes on the bottom of the concrete, about 1.5"s off the bottom.
  • Concrete comes in different PSI strengths. 2500 psi, 3000 psi, 4000 psi. 2500 psi is common on job sites, it is the cheapest. The higher the PSI the more expensive the mix and the harder it is to finish. As the PSI's go up the faster the concrete will dry.
  • Concrete can have fiber added to it while at the plant to help control cracking. Fiber is about $5.00 per yard more in cost. This can be used in place of the PIG wire or it can be stacked with the pig wire. Slabs that contain fiber do not finish as smooth as non-fiber slabs.
  • Do not allow concrete to be poured on to a soft wet area. If it is too wet on the day of the pour hold off. Do not add sand to help soak the water up. Over time it can cause the concrete to crack up. Plastic can be used to keep the ground dry and can serve as a vapor barrier between the building slab and the ground.
  • If you do not have the funds for a slab you can build the building on just a footing. Common footing size is 12" wide by 12" deep or 16' wide by 12" deep. The size of the footing is determined by local and state code. This is based on your soil type and frost line. Normally a footing goes deeper than the frost/freeze line. Footings would require a permit and inspection from the county before the pour. I always prefer to build a building on a footing vs the ground. It gives a good level surface to build off of. Using a footing with a gravel floor can be useful if you are going to park heavy tracked vehicles or some thing that would damage concrete.
  • All concrete to cure up and harden before building your building. Wait at least a week before driving on it. It can take up to 30 days for a full cure.

  • Poured concrete walls are strong. Any wall over two feet in height is normally required to have a permit from your county. You will need engineered drawings to get this permit. Engineering cost $400.00 to $1200.00 depending on the wall specs and how many trips the engineer must come out. We have an engineer that we work with that does a good job and is fair priced.
  • Block wall failure.

    A large block wall failure. Geo mat was used and a asphalt and concrete parking area had sealed off the parking area on top of the wall. If water gets in behind the wall, the hydraulic pressure will blow the wall out. This was a large wall and the cost of repair was quoted at 300K by another block wall company.

    We do not install block walls over 5' high, we recommend concrete for taller walls.

  • Concrete walls need footings. Normally a footing is half as wide as the wall is high. Footing and walls are reinforced with rebar. Good poured walls are expensive. Key ways and rebar are used to lock the walls to the footings.
  • The taller the wall, the wider it will be and the more rebar it will take. 2' to 6' walls are normally 8" thick. 8' to 10' walls are 10" thick. If you are using part of the wall for a foundation for a building you will need at least 6" of concrete in width where the building attaches to the wall. Don't get jambed up pouring to thin a wall.
  • Proper drainage behind the wall is just as important as the wall.
  • Allow the concrete to cure before back filling around the wall. It can take up to 30 days for the wall to cure. Do not rush a wall job, it takes time to get them properly installed.

  • Never allow a concrete truck to drive on your old concrete or asphalt unless you are prepared for it to possibly sink, break and crack.
  • Good trust worthy concrete men are hard to find. Many have paid and lost their money and time, us included. Know who you are using and make sure they are trust worthy and good standing. Look at their eyes and make sure they are not taking something illegal. Con-tractors will take your money and never complete the job. About 10 years ago, we hired out our concrete and grading work, just like everyone else. We do a lot of jobs. After we fired several and then a lien was placed on one of our jobs by a cement company for non-payment, which we ended up paying for twice, and a criminal complaint in Cobb County court against an unnamed Con-tractor by us. The end result was we paid for that job twice to clear the lien. The contractor had already spent the money on drugs and could not pay. The contractor did not have an actual business or machinery to take in small claims court. So the civil suit was pointless since he did not have anything to take.
  • Those experiences helped guide me to start our own concrete and grading division. If you decide to use us, we can be found. This builds trust because we have a reputation and we have a real store front. This is not to say that all other concrete companies are foul, because their are some good guys out there. Just make sure you pay the concrete plant directly for the mix if you do not know the contractor, this will help you avoid paying for materials twice if you have a problem. This will always cover you, so make that part of the deal.
  • All grading work and concrete finishing work is done in house. We have track loaders,dump trucks, skid steers, excavators, saws, compactors, grapples and all the necessary supporting tools to complete your job. We do not need to rely on rental machinery. This means we can get there and get it done in a timely and professional manner.
  • Some extra items that we can preform which do not normally come priced in the job are: Finish grading and installing new grass.


    Carport / Garage Dealer's

    Metal Carports / Awnings

    Sheds, Barns / Kits